Hello hello hello… Hope you’re all doing well. I finally have a finished sewing project to share with you today, hurray! I actually finished making this dress about two weeks ago, but the combination of gloomy days (meaning I couldn’t get decent photos) and fighting off a persistent cold was no joke. But anyways, let’s talk about my new Ivy Pinafore, shall we?
The Ivy Pinafore was first launched in October 2016, so yeah she’s been around for a while. I don’t know about you, but I love wearing/making pinafores in the colder months. The one thing that made me decide to make the Ivy now was that the pinafores (both views) are fully lined, although you can do without. At the time, I was looking at all the beautiful Abraham Moon wool fabrics that just made an appearance in the fabric shops I follow (online), and I really wanted to try my hands on sewing with wools. But since my skin usually doesn’t like touching wools, I had to think about lining.
The pattern calls for medium weight fabrics such as corduroy, denim, jacquard, and drill. For Winter options wools and velvet are on the suggested list. You’ll also need matching lightweight fabric for lining. Both views come with in-seam pockets.
The pattern was drafted for a D cup – I was panicking a bit when I first found that out, I’m a B cup so that would be quite a significant SBA to do. But apparently you don’t really need to do that, at least not with the view 1 that I went with. Mel of stitch_make_bake on Instagram made view 2 of the dress and she told me she didn’t need SBA (she’s also a B cup). Check out her beautiful version here. It is also mentioned in the instructions that SBA isn’t needed but you may need to watch out for the hem being uneven and correct that before hemming.
I chose this beautiful medium weight 100% wool herringbone fabric from Abraham Moon that I purchased from Abakhan. They have sold out of the herringbone one in this colour (raspberry) but at the time of writing this post they still have this colour in plain – well, just about, they have 2m left. The fabric is 150cm wide and I used less than 2m, about 1.7m I think.
I prewashed my fabric in my machine, even though the instruction was to dry clean. I don’t like dry cleaning (can’t stand the chemicals they use), I just used wool setting on my machine and it worked. This is how I’ve been washing my wools anyway.
For the lining, I went with anti static taffeta lining from Minerva in dusky pink. It is 100% polyester. I am not usually into polyester fabrics, but this one is ok. I didn’t want viscose lining, I don’t like viscose in the colder months. So far, I have no complaints about this lining fabric.
I used Schmetz universal needle in size 80 for sewing this wool with Gütermann Sew All in shade 382. One thing I noticed when sewing (and also cutting for that matter) with wool – at least with this one – is that it generates quite a LOT of fluff. So if you’re like me and only clean your machine after a couple projects, I think it’s wise to clean the machine straight after finishing this project. I actually did in the middle of the project too when I was changing my bobbin thread and noticed all the fluff under the needle plate!
The Sewing Process.
The pattern is aimed at confident beginners to advanced seamstresses. I found this project to be easy and quite straight forward. I finished it in a couple of days, and I didn’t even need my seam ripper! To be honest, I was being extra careful with my sewing as ripping a seam in a wool fabric with the thread matching the fabric perfectly doesn’t sound like a lot of fun to me.
The instructions in the pattern are very clear with digital illustrations as visual aid. The only changes I made were shortening the dress by 4 inches and I didn’t finish the centre front and back seams with flat-felled seams, instead I did Hongkong seams there, although now I look back I see it really wasn’t necessary. My fabric doesn’t unravel, and of course the lining hides the (pretty) bias tapes that I cut especially for this project. 😦
As you can probably guess, I thoroughly enjoyed this project. I love the fabrics I chose, I mean look at the colour! It brightens the dark gloomy Winter days to me 😀 The pattern is definitely a keeper; well-drafted and with clear instructions. I would definitely recommend it for a nice, quick and easy project.
I hope this review was helpful to you. I’m currently working on an exciting project that’s a collaboration with another fabric shop and I just cannot wait to share it with you all! But until then, I hope you’re keeping warm and away from nasty cold/virus. See you again soon.