New Look 6217 – Top | How to finish neckline and armholes with bias binding

I know, I know… I promised a full review of the Kalle, but I still haven’t finished the project yet. We got back from our mini break on Friday and you know how it is, after holiday you do all the laundry. So that’s what I’ve been doing – how exciting, eh?

But that wasn’t all I do, I also made the top from New Look 6217. This top is so quick to make, you can basically whip it up in an afternoon. So, let’s get into the deets, shall we?

The pattern.
New Look 6217 pattern review by The Fair Stitch blog.
Image: simplicity.com

One of the things I find interesting about New Look patterns is that they often come as complete outfit patterns in one envelope. I’m not sure if the other Big Four do this also, I haven’t tried/checked them out. Economically speaking, it is very budget friendly. Not to mention that a pattern envelope usually only costs you around £6 on Amazon.

This particular one comes with patterns for trousers, a skirt, a kind of light jacket, and of course the top. Size range isn’t bad either; US 10 to 22 (bust 32 1/2” to 44”). I was particularly interested in the top after seeing a few bloggers and vloggers make and love it.

New Look 6217 pattern review by The Fair Stitch blog.
Image: simplicity.com

The pattern for the top itself isn’t really “special”, actually come to think of it, the others look rather simple too. The skirt and trousers don’t even have pockets, yikes! The top pattern has only two pieces; the front and back. And as you can see the sleeves are grown-on.

The fabric.

New Look 6217 pattern review by The Fair Stitch blog.

This fabric may look familiar to those who follow my blog, this is a leftover from my Myosotis dress. I had about 70cm and I kept thinking of ways to use it that’s not for pockets or trims. The fabric is cotton lawn, very lightweight with a good bit of drape. The pattern envelope says for my size (I made size 14) I’d need about 80cm, so perfect! You’ll also need 2m of bias tape/binding and a button.

The changes.
  1. The only real change I made is omitting the centre back opening, I found the neck opening was wide enough to pull over my head. It also means I abandoned the instructions, actually I didn’t need the instructions at all, as I said, it’s a very simple top. You basically just do the side seams and shoulder seams, bind the neckline and the armholes, and finally hem. Tadaaa.
  2. I french seamed everything. Of course. 😀
The garment.

New Look 6217 pattern review by The Fair Stitch blog.

The top is quite loose fitting, so I wasn’t worried about the size I chose. I like the fit and it’s very easy to wear. I can imagine it getting a lot of wear in the Summer. That being said, if I were to make another I think I’d to shorten it a bit. I’ve been really into boxy tops. Hence my Kalle.

Final thoughts.

I know I work mostly with indie patterns, and in a (good) way I think I’m spoiled by their sewalongs, tutorials, and even the styling ideas. If I didn’t see the bloggers/vloggers review of the top pattern, I doubt I’d give this pattern another look if I saw it in the shops. I mean, looking at the lady wearing the whole outfit on the envelope, that’s definitely not the style I’d usually go for. That being said, I actually love this pattern set now that I’ve made the top. I think they’ve got potential. I look at them now as a base, you can really play not only with the fabric choice but also with simple hacking. I may not be totally in love with my new top (I think it’s due to my fabric choice, I’m just not feeling the print and colour!), but it’s definitely wearable. So yeah, I am keeping this pattern.

If you have some leftover in your stash that’s less than a metre, and you’ve already got dozens of Ogden cami in your wardrobe and would something different, I’d recommend this pattern.

To see more images of this pattern set, check out this hashtag on Instagram. This particular top by @indigo_elephant is just perfect!

Mini neckline/armhole binding tutorial.

Now, let’s get into the mini tutorial bit of this post. I can’t remember where I learned this technique from exactly, but I find it really helpful when you want to apply bias binding to neckline/armhole where the shoulder seams, or shoulder and side seams are already sewn together – no opening involved. Here’s how I do it:

  1. Pin the bias binding with its raw edge flush against the neckline/armhole, right sides together.  Start at a seam join (mine at the centre back seam). Leave about one inch allowance at both ends of the tape. 

  2. Sew the tape and neckline/armhole with the seam allowance stated in the pattern instructions (for this top it was 3/8” or 1cm). Start from a seam join and end just before reaching the starting point again. For my neckline I started from the back centre seam, for the armholes I started from the side seam join (bottom of armhole).
  3. Sew the bias tape ends together, with the folds on the bias tape kept (not opened flat) to keep the raw edges enclosed later. Sewing the tape’s ends together basically means you have the tape’s circumference the same as the neckline’s or armhole’s.
     

  4. Cut the leftover bias tape down to about 5/8” or 1.5cm, press it open.
  5. Cut the SA on the fabric down to just shorter than the bias tape – kind of like grading the SA.
  6. Turn the tape to the inside, fold it so that the tape is hidden on the inside and not visible/peeking on the outside. Pin all around. Make sure the tape’s raw edges are hidden under. Press.New Look 6217 pattern review by The Fair Stitch blog.
  7. Topstitch all around, making sure that the bias tape is caught in the stitching. 

  8. Give it a nice press. The bound neckline/armhole should be flat now.

So that’s all. Easy peasy, right? If you have a better technique to do this, please share down below, I’d love to learn.

*Edit : it is important to understitch the bias facing to help flatten and avoid the bias facing peeking out. I obviously forgot to do that here *facepalm*. Do as I say, not as I do? LOL.

Thank you so much for reading. I need to get back to my Kalle project now. 😀 See you again soon. Happy stitching.

Faye

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5 thoughts on “New Look 6217 – Top | How to finish neckline and armholes with bias binding

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