Hello friends, long time no see… sorry the blog went quiet the last couple of weeks, I have been (again) struggling with back pain. I managed to aggravate the piriformis muscle (never lift up heavy stuff without bending the knees and using the legs!), second time in six months this! I think I mentioned in an old blog post (December) that I was struggling with back pain. So the piriformis muscle is basically a small muscle in the butt, located next to the sciatic nerve. So when this muscle gets angry it’ll release its wrath onto the sciatic nerve and the pain you get is like sciatica pain (disclaimer: I’m no doctor, this is based on my own experience and doctor google, ok? Don’t shoot me!). I couldn’t sit, couldn’t walk, couldn’t even stand up straight. I’d get this very sharp pain in my butt (literally a pain in the ass!) and left leg. But I’m on the mend now, still being extra careful with my back though. And I am totally missing my sewing machine!
Anyways, enough about my woes, I am here to talk about the new amazing pattern from Helen’s Closet. I mentioned in the last post that I bought the pattern, possibly within the hour it was released. I’d never bought a pattern that quick before. But I knew what I was in for, I adore Helen’s patterns, this is my fourth of hers, and I loooove her aesthetics! The patterns she’s designed are basically the stuff I’d buy/wear ALL THE TIME! And she is such an amazing human being – I’d know ‘cos I basically
stalk follow her on Insta. And the podcast. And her blog. I have no shame. LOL. Love you, Helen.
So, enough with all the chit-chat, let’s get on with the review.
The Yanta Overalls is the first new pattern that Helen’s Closet released with the expanded sizing, 0-30, from full bust 31 to 56 inches, waist 24 to 48 inches, and hips 33 to 58 inches. How amazing is that?! The pattern was drafted for a 5’6″ tall woman with a B cup bust.
The fabrics recommended are medium to heavy weight wovens such as cotton twill, denim (up to 10oz), linen, corduroy, and canvas. I like that they’re basically “easy” fabrics; easy to find, easy to sew, me likey. 😀 But you can also choose more drapey fabrics such as tencel twill, wool crepe, or viscose/linen blend for a less structured and softer look. So versatile.
There are two options for this pattern; you can have the overalls with cropped pants or shorts. It also calls for two buttons instead of buckles such as the ones you’d find on dungas. There are 6 pockets, SIX pockets, people!!! Ok, I think I need to tone down my enthusiasm a bit here. LOL. The bib and back (what do you call it? Bib is just for the front, right?) are finished with facing, the straps are two layers of fabric with interfacing in between, and there are also waist darts to give it a bit of shaping.
One of the things I love the most about the pattern is how amazing the instruction booklet is. As per usual, there are digital illustrations for every step and printing guide. But that’s not all, there are also helpful tutorials on how to do FBA, lengthen/shorten, make muslin – which pieces you’ll need, grading between sizes, and… here’s my favourite bit, assessing the fit! I mean, come on! She went above and beyond to make sure you’ll have the smoothest sewing process and love the end product. How amazing is that? So you know where the crotch should be exactly, where the side scoop should be, etc.
I decided to go with easy to wear 8oz washed denim in blue that I purchased from Fabric Godmother UK. Yeah, rather boring plain denim. But I knew I’d want to wear these overalls with everything – I think I made the right call. 😀
This is not a very stiff denim, rather soft in fact but still has a bit of structure. This fabric is 100% cotton, very easy to sew and press, I love it. I bought 2.5m of the fabric but ended up using only 2m of it as my fabric is non-directional, I had more freedom to cut this way and that as long as I mind the grainline.
The sewing experience.
I made mine in a straight size 12, my measurements are 37-31-39 and I’m 5’2.5″. Although as you’ll find out later that I did make a few changes to fit me better. If I made this without my back pain slowing me down, I think I’d have finished the project in two days, and I’m a slow sewist. Everything was straightforward, the instructions are so clear and informative. I didn’t make a toile for this (naughty, I know!), and I have no excuse other than I was too excited to have this Yanta in my wardrobe ASAP.
- I didn’t change the length of the legs as I fell in love with the turn-up hem look that Wendy (the model in Helen’s pattern) was sporting. But I did shorten 1″ (each) of the front and back crotch and another inch from the top back so that the bit where the straps join the back is lower.
- I decided to edgestitch all the way around the scoop, bib, and back as I like the contrasting topstitching on denim.
- I finished the front and back mid-seam(?)/crotch and inseam with flat-felled seam. I just feel that this finish is great for strengthening seams around crotch.
- I tapered the legs a bit more and took in side seams from just below the waist for slimmer hips. I don’t have much of hips action going on so I didn’t really need the extra fabric around there. I kept the waist measurement as is and it is perfect, just enough room for me to pull the overalls on without needing the extra zipper.
- Because of the flat-felled seams on the front and back, I couldn’t get the diamond shape topstitching in the back, and I was so gutted as I love that detail! If I went the diamond-shape topstitching, the middle topstitching would make my diamond look odd and wonky. Ah well, next time.
- I finished the legs’ side seams with bias binding, but only about a third of the way up as I didn’t have enough bias binding. I wanted a flash of orange that would tie – in with my orange mismatched buttons. Like I said, I wanted to fold up the hems when wearing the overalls.
- I also did the middle topstitching of the top pocket last, after the facing is attached. This middle topstitching is like stitching-in-the-ditch to secure the facing to the bib in the middle.
Little tip: to decide where to sew my buttons on, I use pins – as you do, and then check by raising both hands – arms pretty much vertical. Then you decide how much wedgie you’d like. LOL. Mine is only tiny.
Do I need to say how much I love this garment? I am sure by now you know how I feel about jumpsuits, overalls, and pinafores. 😀 These overalls are just so comfy! I love the length I went for, I can unfold the hems for colder months. The roomy waist and hips make this garment feel like secret pyjamas.
Would highly recommend this pattern. And knowing Helen, I am pretty sure there will be plenty of hacks available. I think I need at least one more pair of the Yanta, preferably in linen for the Summer. Ah I’m so excited to make more Yantas!
Before I forget, the #sewtogetherforsummer is still going on if you’d like to join in. This Yanta obviously is my second entry. I’m currently working on my Peppermint Magazine Playsuit, so hopefully I can share that with you later this week.
So, that’s all from me for today. Hope you have a great week, see you again soon. Happy stitching.