Freya Dress – Stretch book by Tilly Walnes | Pattern Hack

Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.
The weather was so glorious! (Sunday, May 12th 2019)

Hiya friends, hope you’re all having a great day. I’m here with the return of the Freya. If you remember, back in December (ooh that rhymes haha!) I made the Freya dress and sweater version, and I was completely following the instructions/pattern, and they were great, I got plenty of compliments – well, who am I kidding, it’s Tilly’s pattern, of course they were great! I love wearing them, but as I used ponte roma, I find them to be a bit too warm and Winter-y for now. So I decided to make a more Summer-y version, in a lighter weight jersey. Without further ado, let’s meet my newest dress πŸ˜‰

The hack.
Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.
Had to pin the back of the dress a bit as my dressmaker’s dummy is at least two sizes smaller than me.

What I did is basically just changing the skirt portion from A-line to gathered skirt. It’s actually pretty straight forward – in theory, you just gather two rectangles for the skirt, attach it to the bodice. Et voila, you’ve got a dress! Right… in reality, just slightly different – though mostly I think was due to my fabric and thread choice.

On the pattern pieces for the original Freya, Tilly actually marks where the waist point is – I’m pretty sure I’m not the only one loving this. So I added 1.5cm SA to it, and then cut the bodice on the right angle to the grainline. The skirt is actually the pattern piece for my Little Rabbit dress, because that’s what I had on hand – I was too lazy to draw another rectangle. πŸ˜€

Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.
The faux elastic casing – before pressed.

As you can see, I added a faux elastic casing on the waist – there’s no elastic in it. The reason is because I had a booboo when I was attaching the gathered skirt to the bodice. I ended up with a couple of holes on the bodice’s SA thanks to my very crappy unpicking skills. Sigh. There was no way I could chop off the SA on the bodice, that would be waaaay too short. And then I remembered how much I loved the Anza dress/jumpsuit elastic casing – the way that the casing hides the skirt/trousers’ seam allowance. I managed to cover the tiny holes on the bodice with the casing, but before I added the casing, I actually put a bit of iron-on interfacing on the holes, for peace of mind, really.

I also decided to go with elbow length sleeves this time, everything else is the same as my old Freya. I made a straight size 5 again.

The fabric.

Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.The fabric I used is double brushed poly-spandex in mustard yellow with white polka dots that I purchased from Girl Charlee Fabrics UK back in December (I think). They still have this particular fabric in stock at the time of writing. The fabric is quite lightweight and drapey, perfect for the gathered skirt I think. It is also very soft – OMG I can’t stop stroking it!

To make this dress, I used 2m of fabric. Had I gone with the longer sleeves, my skirt would’ve been a lot shorter.

Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.

One thing that I found rather tricky when working with this fabric was that it is quite sticky, it likes to cling to itself. When I was attaching the already-gathered skirt to the bodice, I was really struggling with the tucks happening on the bodice part. And as I was using the narrow lightning stitch on my machine, it was such a PITA unpicking the stitches… this is how I ended up with holes on the bodice. Also, even though I was using the walking foot, I still had one occasion where a bit of the fabric ended up stuck in the needle plate. Ugh!

I mentioned my poor thread choice, yeah… I should’ve gone with my trusty GΓΌtermann Sew All. I didn’t have any on hand that matched my fabric – this was an impromptu project after all, so I went with what I had, which was the Mettler poly sheen thread. I know some people swear by this brand, but I was really struggling with this thread. It seemed to split easily no matter what needle size I used (and they’re brand new ballpoint needles), as if the ply isn’t as tight as GΓΌtermann, perhaps?

But all is well in the end. I loooove this dress and it is oooooh so comfy to wear! I am pretty sure I’ll be remaking this hacked version, without the faux casing. I am actually thinking about remaking this in the same fabric – maybe different colour. Girl Charlee do have a nice selection of double brushed poly-spandex. Maybe this blush pink with palm leaves prints on it? Tempting!

Freya dress hack, The Fair Stitch blog.

So, that’s all I have to report for now, thank you so much for reading. I am currently working on Helen’s Closet’s new pattern; the Yanta overalls. I was so excited when Helen announced this pattern, never had I bought a pattern so soon after release! I think it was within the hour LOL. What exciting project(s) are you working on? πŸ™‚

 

Faye

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4 thoughts on “Freya Dress – Stretch book by Tilly Walnes | Pattern Hack

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