So, here we are with part two of this pattern. As I mentioned in part one, I was not happy with my first dress and I considered it a fail – though I still love wearing it. I spent over a week working on this pattern to get the fit right, I worked on three iterations of toiles. For a rather simple dress, you might think that’s excessive. I do too actually. So, let’s dive into the review, shall we?
The Myosotis is an oversize shirt dress with in-seam pockets, gathered skirt, and ruffle option. I bought my pattern from Guthrie and Ghani, at the time they were the only one still having this pattern in stock, it was sold out everywhere else. It was that popular. I can see why, the dress is so cute. The size range on the paper pattern I find not to be so great; EUR 34 to 46 (bust 31.5″/80cm the smallest to 41″/104cm being the biggest). For reference, I made size 42 and my measurements are : 38-30-39. However, they do offer bigger sizes with the PDF versions, up to size 52 for 45.5″/116cm bust.
The recommended fabrics for this pattern are chambray (I have seen a chambray/lightweight denim version of this dress on IG and it was just beautiful. Perfect for Autumn layered with tights and boots), rayon twill, batiste, double gauze, lightweight cotton sateen. You will need about 3m with 60″/150cm wide fabric, or 3.5m for 45″/115cm wide fabric.
There are not that many pattern pieces for this dress, so good news for you tracers out there. The pattern is beautifully packaged, the instructions are clear and each step is accompanied by digital illustration. In the UK, the paper pattern retails for around £15.
The fabric I used is cotton lawn that I bought from John Lewis a while back when they had Summer sale. I actually was planning to revisit the Bleuet pattern with this fabric, but I didn’t have any more fabric in my (mini) stash that would be suitable for playing around with this pattern. I think I used just over 2m of it. It is 55″/140cm wide. The fabric is quite soft, certainly softer and drapier than my Liberty lawn that I used to make the first version of this dress.
There are a few changes I did to the pattern. I think this is the fussiest one I’ve worked on so far, certainly the fussiest dress pattern. But once I got the fit right, the sewing process only took about two days. Very quick, as I said it is quite a simple dress. It is still ridiculous though that for a loose fit dress it took me three goes with my toiles to get it right. I need to learn toile-ing more efficiently.
Disclaimer: The fitting changes I did to the pattern may not necessarily be the best way to do it, I basically just played around with the toile – manipulating fabric here and there and see if it worked.
- I did what I said I was going to do in part one post. I ended up moving the shoulder seams forward by 1 cm on the neckline side and 2 cm at the end of the shoulder where it meets the sleeve.
- Moved the sleeve centre notch to the front by 2cm.
- Did a Small Bust Adjustment. I noticed in the first version that I needed the SBA. I think D&D patterns are drafted for C cup.
- Reduced the back armscye by 2cm. I noticed that even after I moved the shoulder seams to the front I still saw a bit of diagonal fold around the shoulder seams down to armholes. Then I realised that it was because there was gaping in the back armhole. I didn’t change anything on the sleeve pattern for the final dress, though I kept thinking, ‘surely I should?’, but when I did reduce the sleeve cap by the same amount on the same spot, it didn’t look right. Odd. 😕
- I decided to go with version A for the skirt. Just because. That hem though! 😮 I’m done with ruffles/gathers for this year.
- I omitted the pockets, I am not a fan of in-seam pockets. I do plan to add patch pockets to this dress later.
*Little handy tip I discovered when working on collars, put the bodice on a dress form if you have one and then pin and baste before taking the bodice to the machine. For beginners or those who’ve not tried collars before, the collar piece is longer than the neckline because of seam allowance. So, when pinning, align on the stitching line. I always stay-stitch the neckline just inside the seam allowance (usually about 1/2″ for 5/8″ SA), this helps me finding the stitching line when I’m pinning the collar piece to the neckline.
I didn’t change the length of the dress, the hem hits just above the knees which I like – I am just over 5’2″. I omitted the sleeve ruffles as I know I’d want to layer this dress with a cardi this time of the year.
I like the fact that the shoulders fit better now, but I’m still not completely sold to be honest. I think the fit is not 100% yet, but I’m not sure I’d like to spend more time with this pattern.
I know, I know… it sounds harsh, especially because I really love their designs. It breaks my heart to rate this pattern so low, but it was quite a pain! As I said, for a simple loose fit dress with gathered skirt, it shouldn’t be this difficult to get the fit right. The diagonal fold really bugged me, and I also noticed that fold on other people’s Myosotis. And it wasn’t a one-step fix either as I still had the fold after moving the seams forward. Like I said, even now I don’t think I’ve fixed the problem completely, but for now I’ll leave it at that. I feel like, with all the problems, I might as well draft myself a new bodice – which ironically is the most important bit of this pattern as the skirt is just rectangular piece(s). Like I mentioned before, I never encountered this particular fit issue with other patterns, including the big Five’s. I also have the same issue with their Bleuet, so that’s on my homework list as I don’t want that pattern to sit there unused.
So, I’m afraid I can’t really recommend this pattern if you’d like a quick and easy dress to work on. But I would whole-heartedly recommend it if you’d like to try a fitting challenge. I must say that I’m glad I bought this pattern and “play” with it. This is definitely not a hand-holding kind of pattern but it does push me to learn more about fitting. And for that I’m grateful.
That’s all from me this week. Hope you enjoyed this one, please hit the like button if you did. You can also subscribe to my blog to see more posts from me. Thank you so much for spending time with me today, have a wonderful day.