Spoiler alert: this project was not a success. And my camera really hates the floral print on the fabric it keeps refusing to focus, aaargh!
A few weeks ago, Deer and Doe launched two new patterns; the Opium coat and the beautiful Magnolia dress. I am seriously loving all the Magnolias I’ve seen. And the Opium coat? I need one! I was definitely tempted to get the patterns, but I need to wait. The reason? I find D&D patterns a bit problematic to me, certainly the two patterns I’ve tried. So yeah, more learning for me first.
I made this dress back in the Summer when the pattern was first launched, it was love at first sight. I chose View B, I wanted less ruffling action on my dress. I was so excited I even used my precious Liberty tana lawn for this project. So the fail feels even more disappointing. But to be honest, I still love this dress and I wear it. I wear this failure like a badge of honour, because this dress taught me something. You learn more from failure than success, right?
This is my second D&D pattern, the first was the Bleuet. On both dresses, I actually ended up with the same problem; the fit around the shoulders was off. As the fit on the Myosotis is looser, even with the shoulder fit being off, the dress is still wearable. Whereas with the bleuet, because it is more close-fitting, the tightness around the shoulders and armholes, and the garment pulling to the back make the dress hardly wearable. I still haven’t revisited the Bleuet pattern, but I do intend to as it is a beautiful shirt dress.
If you look closely, you’ll notice that there’s a diagonal fold on my right shoulder (because I took the photos using the front facing camera on my phone, it looked like the fold is on my left) that runs from the neck down to the armhole. It is not too obvious on the other shoulder but it is there, which is strange. I’m guessing it is because my right shoulder slopes more than the left (never noticed that before) and I have slightly forward thrusting shoulder, certainly compared to the person the pattern was drafted for. I don’t have this problem with other pattern companies whose patterns I’ve tried, hence I’d never noticed that my right shoulder is slightly lower.
If my guess was correct, the way to fix this would be to:
- Pinch the shoulder seam and see how much fabric I need to add to the back and reduce from the front.
- Add to the shoulder of the back bodice pattern piece (moving the shoulder line/seam to the front).
- Reduce by the same amount on the front bodice pattern piece’s shoulder.
- Move the sleeve cap centre notch on the pattern piece to the front.
- Check the neckline and adjust the collar pattern piece accordingly.
Obviously, I will have to do the same for my Bleuet. Honestly, I’m not feeling disheartened by this. I actually now love the fact that I came across this problem, I just need to find the time to fix this issue both on my pattern and bod – been meaning to get back to my yoga routine for a while. I really want to do this as there are so many beautiful patterns from D&D that I want to make.
As you can see on the title of this post, this is only part one. I’ll re-work this pattern, do a proper review and update you on whether or not my method works. I’d love to try pairing this pattern with viscose twill. Unfortunately, my project queue is currently quite long, and each and every one of them is equally exciting for me, so no bumping up! I’m still working on the toile for the Jenny Overalls from Closet Case, it’s a bit slow going as I’m distracted by other non-sewing projects, so very typical of me.
Have you experienced this fit issue? How did you fix it? Let me know what you think about my assessment or if you have better idea(s) on how to fix this issue (thanks in advance). I’ll see you again next week, have a great weekend everyone.