Turia Dungarees – Pauline Alice | Pattern Review

turia-dungarees
Turia Dungarees – image from http://www.paulinealicepatterns.com

You know, I think dungarees are so much fun, don’t you agree? And contrary to popular belief, I don’t think they’re exclusive for little girls. Adults can have fun too, surely? I always love dungarees, I remember I had a favourite pair back in high school that I wore to death. I also remember my Dad took me to the mall and bought me those. Yeah, he was cool. As today marks 10 years of my Dad’s passing, I thought it was perfect timing to publish a dungaree pattern review here. Anyways, on to the review.

The Turia pattern has been around for a while, exactly four years actually. If you check #turiadungarees on Instagram you’ll find over 500 beautiful pictures of Turias. The pattern comes in two versions; two different length. The recommended fabrics are light to medium weight woven fabric such as cotton, chambray, linen, denim, gabardine, twill. I went for the ankle length version (view A) and I chose viscose-linen fabric in mint colour that I purchased from Fabrics Galore London. They no longer have the fabric in this colour but at the time of writing this post I noticed they just put the grey version of this fabric on their website. Here’s a direct link to it (non affiliated): https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/collections/linen-fabric/products/flamingo-linen-pink

I had never worked with viscose-linen fabric before, though I was already familiar with viscose and as much as I love the feel and drape, I am not a fan of how easily it frays. As linen also frays easily, I knew from the beginning that I’d have to be extra mindful about finishing the seams. The pattern tells you to do flat felled seam on the in-seam, front and back centre seams. This was my first time trying this seam technique.

I purchased the pattern in PDF format, which surprisingly I prefer nowadays. There are 39 pages to print for the pattern and 5 pages for the instructions. I found the instructions to be clear, they are presented with digital illustrations with every step, plus additional glossary to refer to for technical terms. So all good.

There are a few changes I made to the pattern, such as:

  1. For the front pocket’s curves, I used bias binding (12mm wide). The pattern tells you to just fold the curve to the wrong side, clip the curve, and double topstitch. As for the straight sides, just fold the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. I wanted a cleaner finish than this, so even though we’re talking about the inner side of a pocket, I decided to put bias binding on the curve side and double fold the straight sides before topstitching.
  2. I fully lined the bib section. To do this, I just cut the top bit of the bib that was supposed to be folded to the inside, I added seam allowance, and cut two of the fabric instead of one. I stitched the bib pocket to one of the pieces first, and then I stitched the two bibs right sides together from one side, to top, and then to the other side, but I didn’t stitch the bottom edge. Turned it right side out, pressed and topstitched. The reason I did this is because I didn’t want to just fold the seam allowance and topstitch it, I think it’d look unprofessional with the raw edges visible.20180824_095007-01
  3. The pattern tells you (again) to fold the seam allowance, clip, and double stitch the side curve of the backΒ  “bodice” (yeah I don’t know what that is called *shame*), the raw edges will be visible here – oh noooo! To be fair, the designer did suggest double folding or use bias binding here if fabric frays. I chose to use bias binding, including when attaching the bib. So instead of using flat felled seam to stitch the bib to the trousers, I baste-stitched with right sides together and did bias facing on the inside that goes from one side of the back curve all the way to the front and ends at the side zipper. You can probably guess by now what number four is πŸ˜‰ 20180824_095059-01
  4. I only used only one invisible zipper and I placed it on the right side of the trousers. I have no problem putting them on and taking them off.
  5. For the side seams, I decided to finish them with Hongkong finish (enclosing raw edges with bias binding). I don’t particularly like the zigzag finish, and even if I did choose this finish I feared that the stitches wouldn’t be secure enough for the loose weave fabric and I’d end up with (rather chunky) loose thread stuck on the zipper teeth, yikes! Nightmare!20180824_095203-01

So yeah, quite a bit of changes and it took more time than planned for me to finish the project because I also had to make my own bias binding, but I am happy with the cleaner look on the inside. Funny thing is, I am kinda glad that I don’t own an overlocker, it gives me a chance to play with different kind of finishes for my seams. My favourite is still the French seam. ❀

Another thing I did to the dungarees is swapping the buckles for good ole buttons and buttonholes. I am just not a fan of buckles. And because my fabric isn’t as thick as a medium/heavy weight denim, I found the buckles to be quite clunky. These buttons were from an old jumper that was no longer wearable it had to go, but not before I salvaged the buttons first, so yay recycling! The colour of the buttons matched the fabric perfectly. I love them!

I do plan to make another Turia in a more Autumnal fabric, I’m thinking warm coloured corduroy or denim. I have been seeing nice rust and also mustard colour denims out there. Tempting. There are a few more changes I’m planning to make for my next Turia, such as:

  • I’ll try a size smaller as these have quite a bit of ease.
  • I’m thinking tapering the legs, I like them skinnier.
  • I want waistband on my next one. This would also make it easier for me to fully line the back like I did with the bib. Obviously I have to be more mindful with my choice of fabric and or lining.

The verdict

5 out 5 stars from me! I love these dungarees, they’re the ultimate comfort! The instructions and pattern pieces are easy to understand, and I think the pattern is quite versatile. You can wear these babies all year round, depending on your fabric of choice of course. What I also love is the fact that the designer released a hack for skirt/pinafore version, you can find it here. This is the second pattern from Pauline Alice that I made and I love both. I also love her design aesthetics, and her website/blogΒ  is just so beautiful and inspiring. *heart eyes*

A word of warning about the flat felled seam though; it is major PITA to do where the inside seams meet the crotch curve! I’d never been so angry at my project before, yikes! The thing is, you Google it out, do a search on YouTube, only to find people demonstrating how to do the bloody seam in square fabric sample, stitching straight, which is of course, easy. Aargh frustrating!

Well, I didn’t mean to end this post on an angry note, so here’s a peach, may your day be as sweet πŸ˜€20180628_122330-01

Thanks for hanging out with me today, see you again soon.

 

Happy stitching,

Faye

XX

5 thoughts on “Turia Dungarees – Pauline Alice | Pattern Review

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